Brunello di Montalcino Riserva is the liquid chronicle of a unique terroir, a snapshot that, vintage after vintage, captures the essence of Sangiovese Grosso under the Tuscan sun. The Vinitaly 2026 tasting, in which I had the privilege of participating, was extraordinary. It was led by Master of Wine Gabriele Gorelli,  who was joined by the Director of the Consortium , Guglielmo Ascheri.
In the glass, Brunello di Montalcino Riserva revealed its dynamism; a tasting of the nine labels showed how Sangiovese is capable of expressing both the generosity of warm vintages and the rigor of cooler ones, consistently achieving, thanks to the producers’ skillful work, a masterful balance between the power of the fruit and the elegance of aging.

Here is the story of a sensory journey through some of the appellation’s most iconic labels.

The years of legend (1985–1999)
This historical period demonstrated Brunello’s extraordinary capacity for aging, as it transforms its youthful vigor into a mature and elegant complexity.

Il Poggione Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 1985
A cornerstone. 1985 was a warm vintage that gave rise to a wine that remains intact today, with dry floral notes, black cherry and blackberry liqueur, leather, sweet tobacco, and a surprisingly fresh finish; despite its age, it still possesses an enviable spark of life. 93/100

Mastrojanni Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 1990
A masterpiece. 1990 remains one of the best vintages of the last century. On the nose, it is rich in fruit and spices, with delightful tertiary notes; on the palate, it reveals a still-intact material density, with a silky tannic texture and a remarkably long finish of forest floor and oriental spice aromas. 96/100

Col d’Orcia Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 1995 Poggio al Vento
A Cru that has proven to be one of the most long-lived. The 1995 vintage is remarkably balanced; the wine exhibits considerable warmth, supported by a pleasing freshness. The dark fruit is full-bodied, followed by hints of medicinal herbs and the iron-like notes typical of the southern slope. The nose unfolds, echoing the palate in its lingering character. 94/100

La Magia – Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 1995
More austere on both the nose and the palate, it offers a darker expression of macerated fruit, with notes of prune and dark chocolate, rhubarb, and earthy undertones; on the palate, it reveals greater maturity. 91/100

Fattoria dei Barbi – Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 1999
A splendid vintage that has made its mark in recent history, with a nose characterized by floral tones, full-bodied fruit, and intense vegetal notes. It is robust, well-structured, and has a long finish that brings to mind notes of pipe tobacco and licorice root. 94/100

Toward modernity (2006–2015)
In these vintages, vineyard management and winery techniques have further refined the expression of the terroir.

Camigliano Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2006 “Gualto”
A radiant and powerful vintage that translates into generosity, with notes of blackberry jam and an intense spiciness. It is balsamic, with persuasive nuances of toast, coffee, and chocolate—an impactful and powerful wine. 93/100

La Gerla Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2010 “Gli Angeli”
Perfection. The 2010 vintage is of the highest caliber, with a full, vertical nose of cherry and plum, complemented by notes of tobacco, white pepper, and graphite. On the palate, it is deep and long, with a fine tannic structure balanced by a pleasant richness and remarkable freshness that creates an admirable rhythm. 97/100

Le Chiuse Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2015 “Diecianni”
2015 was a warm yet balanced vintage. This Sangiovese shines with class, offering floral notes of violet, ripe red berries, and juniper berries, which then evolve into sweet, toasted woody tones. On the palate, it reveals good acidity with very fine tannins and balsamic notes of eucalyptus on the finish. 95/100

San Polo Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2015
With a modern, precise style, ripe red fruit and a distinctive, intense vegetal note stand out. On the palate, it offers a fine tannic texture and good freshness, with a hint of black pepper that adds dynamism to the mouthfeel. 91/100

Looking to the future (2020)
A “captivating, brilliant, succulent” vintage, versatile and well-suited to long-term aging.

Altesino Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2020
Although very young, it displays excellent structure, with a nose of vibrant red fruit, violet, white chocolate, and tobacco. On the palate, it is taut and full, already exhibiting excellent balance, with well-defined, silky tannins and a long finish with hints of fruit and spices. Tradition with a contemporary perspective. 95/100

Brunello Riserva is a chameleon: it can be powerful when the vintage calls for it, or subtle and austere when the climate is harsher. The credit, of course, goes to the winemakers who have the courage to gamble on the weather, transforming a simple harvest into a pure emotional experience to be cherished.